Welcome, visitor! [ Register | Login

GM to settle state ignition-switch litigation claims for $120 million

Uncategorized 3 hours ago

General Motors agreed to pay $120 million to resolve claims from 49 U.S. states and the District of Columbia over faulty ignition switches, state attorneys general said.
Source: Automotive News – swapmeetclassified

No views yet

File-To-Fit Piston Rings

Uncategorized 4 hours ago

I’ve always wanted to rebuild an engine myself, so I’m doing the 327 Chevy out of my 1955. I’ve bought books, watched videos, but I’m still confused about piston ring gaps. My rebuild kit came with file-to-fit rings, and I’m not sure of the best way to fit them. The other thing that is confusing is how much gap to have; some recent articles advise using a larger gap on the second rings, which goes against most of what I’ve read. What’s your advice on gaps and how to adjust them?
Billy King
Via the Internet

Ring endgaps are often a source of debate and while recommendations vary, here are recommendations from Mahle:

Top Ring Top Ring Second Ring Oil Rail
High performance/Street Bore x 0.0045″ Bore x 0.0040″ Min 0.015″
Circle track, drag racing Bore x 0.0050″ Bore x 0.0060″ Min 0.015″
Nitrous up to 200 hp Bore x 0.0060″ Bore x 0.0050″ Min 0.015″
Nitrous over 200 hp Bore x 0.0070″ Bore x 0.0070″ Min 0.015″
Turbo/Supercharged up to 15 lb Bore x 0.0060″ Bore x 0.0050″ Min 0.015″
Turbo/Supercharged over 15 lb Bore x 0.0070″ Bore x 0.0070″ Min 0.015″
Diesel – Turbocharged Bore x 0.0060″ Bore x 0.0055″ Min 0.015″

As you can see, as the performance level increases, so should the ring gaps; this is necessary to cope with increased temperature that is created. Also notice that for circle track and drag racing, Mahle recommends the second rings have a larger gap than the first. Some ring/piston manufacturers and engine builders believe that this reduces the fluttering of the top ring during high-rpm operation, others don’t believe it. Regardless, it’s not considered necessary for a street engine.

While there are some engine builders who recommend keeping ring gaps extremely tight, John Beck at Vintage Hot Rod/Pro Machine (vintagehotrod.com) doesn’t always agree. Although he knows he’ll be vulnerable to criticism, John suggests that when a ring gap range is given, 0.018 to 0.020 inch as an example, go with the larger figure. His reasoning is simple: If the ring ends butt together due to thermal expansion the result will be disastrous, often pulling the top ring land off the piston at its thinnest point, the valve relief. In John’s testing, the difference in performance with slightly larger ring gaps is negligible when compared to the safety margin provided when an engine is under a heavy load for a prolonged period. That’s when heat can cause the rings to grow more than normal.

Ring Filing

The accepted method of measuring endgap is by using a feeler gauge with the ring square in the bore, 1 inch down from the deck.

Standard replacement rings will often provide generous endgaps and are used as-is. The advantage of file-to-fit rings is the endgaps can be optimized for the application and sized individually to each cylinder. If cylinder sizes vary it will change the endgap of the rings. Any increase in cylinder diameter is multiplied by pi (3.1416) to determine its circumference. That means an increase of 0.001 inch in the diameter of the cylinder will increase the circumference, and as a result the ring’s endgap increases by 0.003 inch. So, if perfectly uniform gaps are the goal, file-fit rings should be matched to each cylinder.

Filing rings can be done a number of ways:

The old-school method of fitting rings was with a flat file clamped in a vise—crude but effective.
We’ve had this filing jig so long we can’t remember where it came from. The stop is adjusted for the amount to be removed with a feeler gauge. The stop is then spun out of the way and the ring is filed flush with the edge of the jig.
Summit Racing offers a number of piston ring filers, including this hand-cranked version. Hand pressure pushes the end of the ring against the cutting wheel while the adjustable guide keeps it properly located.
This Proform electric grinder from Summit makes fitting rings quick and easy. The ring is clamped in a moveable carriage and a dial indicator shows the amount removed, making repeatability simple. It’s battery powered and comes with a charger.

When fitting rings, always file or grind inward, toward the center of the ring—cutting to the outside can damage moly rings by pulling the coating loose, causing it to flake off. When filing or grinding remove a small amount of material at a time, keep the ends square and lightly deburr the ends with a fine file when finished.
Before installation make sure the rings, pistons, and cylinders are perfectly clean, the rings are installed right side up (this is a very common mistake), and stagger the endgaps according to the manufacturer’s instructions.
Finally, use a quality ring compressor that won’t allow the rings to slip out and snag on the deck during installation. Apply a light coating of oil inside the ring compressor and gently tap the piston into the cylinder with a hammer handle or something similar.

Our preferred piston/ring compressor is the precision-tapered style from ARP. Made for specific bore sizes, they compress the rings as the piston is pushed into the cylinders and make it practically impossible to break a ring or damage a piston during installation.
As we’ve said before, to properly seat new rings use a lubricant without friction modifiers, such as AMSOIL INC.’s Break-In oil.

The post File-To-Fit Piston Rings appeared first on Hot Rod Network.

Source: Hot Rod

No views yet

Chinese-funded EV startup buys tech firm headed by former Tesla exec

Uncategorized 4 hours ago

SF Motors, a California-based electric vehicle unit of China’s Chongqing Sokon Industry Group, acquired an EV and battery tech firm headed by former Tesla executive Martin Eberhard for $33 million.
Source: Automotive News – swapmeetclassified

No views yet

Third Link Suspension: Why and How To Make Changes

Uncategorized 17 hours ago

The third link can refer to either the upper link in a traditional three link rear suspension, or it could refer to a lift arm, pull bar, or torque arm. Those too make up a third attachment that restricts rear end rotation from the torque forces of engine acceleration.

When you change the angle of the third link, or possibly the spring rate of a pull-bar or lift arm, there are certain things you need to pay attention to. Also, there are reasons to make changes to the links we mentioned and we will discuss those too.

When we make changes to our third link, lift or torque arm, we need to make sure we don’t change any other settings on the car. Here we will tell you how to make the changes, why you would want to make the changes and what to look out for.
When we change the angle of the third link, we usually move the forward end up or down. This causes a change in the pinion angle which changes our driveline angles. If the front mount is radiused, then we won’t have to worry about pinion angle, but just to be sure, always record and recheck your pinion/drive shaft angle.

Drive Shaft -Pinion Angle – The driveshaft to pinion angle is one of those critical settings we have talked about in the past. If you have made sure your angles are correct, and we sure hope you have, then when you make changes to the third link assembly, whatever that may be, we need to think about how the change might affect our driveline angles.

If you move a traditional third link front mount down to increase the angle, you will be rotation the rear end and the driveline angles will change, not only at the pinion, but at the transmission also. That is if the mount is vertical and not radiused. And the change won’t be the same at each end. So, we end up with a miss-aligned driveline.

If we install a different spring in a pull-bar, or lift/torque arm, it will compress more or less depending on whether you installed a softer or stiffer spring. What you should have done in the original installation is take into consideration the compression of the spring and where the rear end will be positioned under full throttle acceleration. That is where we need the driveline angle to be correct, not when it is at rest.

We can change the angle of the third link at the rear by moving that mount to a new hole in the rear end brackets. But this does two things, it changes the angle of the link and it increases the effect of the engine torque by shortening the moment arm from the axle to the mount. The closer the mount is to the axle, the more effect it has.
As the spring is compressed in a pull bar third link, the rear end rotates. As it rotates, the pinion angle and driveshaft angles change. We need to make sure these end up with the correct driveline angles when under full acceleration.

There is an easy way to bring back your driveline angles. If the link were solid, then just check the rear end angle before the change and reset it after the change by adjusting the length of the third link. That was easy.

If you have a link with a spring, then you need to figure out how much differently the link moves with the new spring. We can do that with a small amount of math. If our spring compressed 2.0 inches with a 600 ppi (pounds per inch) rate and we install an 800 ppi spring, it will move less with the stiffer spring.

To find out how much less, we do a simple division. If, say, the 600 ppi spring compressed 2.0 inches, then the new stiffer spring will compress 600 ÷ 800 x 2.0-inch = 1.5-inch, and that equals the new travel. Just subtract the new travel from the old travel (2.0-inch – 1.5-inch = 0.5-inch) to get how much you need to move the end of the link at the spring to adjust the link angle.

Force Adjustment – To adjust the force magnitude the link will produce, we make a different adjustment than changing the springs. Changing the spring won’t alter the force of anti-squat, just the speed and amount of movement of the link.

To adjust the force, we need to do one of these things: 1) change the angle in a traditional solid, or sprung, three link, 2) change the height off the rear end (keeping the same angle) of the traditional solid or sprung three link, 3) change the length of the lift or torque arm from the center of the axle to the front mount.

An increase in traditional third link angle will create more anti-squat force. A shorter distance from the traditional third link rear mount to the axle will increase the anti-squat force too. A shorter distance from the axle to the front mount on a lift or torque arm will increase the anti-squat force.

On a lift arm, or torque are third link, if we change the spring, we also change the amount the end of the arm moves, so we need to take into account the change in movement and adjust the height of the end of the arm so that the driveline angles will be correct when the spring is compressed.
An easy way to check your driveline angles before and after a third link change is to measure the driveshaft angle. If the rear end rotates from a change, then the driveshaft angle will also change.

Force Placement – We can adjust the placement of the force created by our third link, whatever the design, by moving it left or right in relation to the rear tires. These links put not only a lifting force on the chassis, but also a downward force on the rear end and ultimately the tires that replaces some of the load on the rear ride springs.

Since we are taking load off the springs and onto the tires through the rear end, the placement left and right dictates how much of the displaced load goes onto each rear tire. If the link is placed midway between the two rear tires, then 50% of the loading goes onto the left tire and 50% goes onto the right tire.

If the link were closer to the left rear tire, say 40% of the rear track width, then 60% of the displaced load would go onto the LR tire. If we had a magic calculator that would tell us how much load ended up on each rear tire, and the LR was 10% less than the RR tire, we could move the third link 10% closer to the LR tire and cause a more equally loaded rear tire scenario for greater traction.

To cause this redistribution of load, we have to physically move the third link position. That’s not easy to do in some cases. And, we don’t want to move it too far either. If the LR needed 10%, more loading and we move the link 20% closer to the LR tire, we are back where we started with unequally loaded tires, only in reverse of where we were to begin with.

To give you some kind of idea how far we are talking about, 10% of a track width of 65 inches is 6.5 inches. So, based on that, if you want to make a 10% change in the force distribution, you would move your third link 3.25 inches towards the LR tire if that is where you need more force.

When load transfers due to acceleration, that load falls on the spring unless we have anti-squat. Anti-squat acts to push up on the rear of the car taking some of the load off of the springs. If we have 50% anti-squat, that means that the link is taking ½ of the transferred load off the springs and putting that load onto the tires. If we then move the link left or right from it being centered between the tires, we can put a higher percentage of the link load on one tire verse the other.

Conclusion – As with the other changes we talk about in this issue, we need to think out what we are changing that isn’t in our original thoughts. Step back and take a good look at what you are doing and try to imagine what else is going to be affected by your changes.

And as always, try to do only one change at a time. Either change the angle of your third link, or move it laterally, not both at the same time. Or, change the spring rate or the length of the lift/torque arm, not both.

The post Third Link Suspension: Why and How To Make Changes appeared first on Hot Rod Network.

Source: Hot Rod

No views yet

Nissan comes to the rescue

Uncategorized October 18, 2017

When a fellow pickup driver gets stuck in the mud, a Nissan Titan owner lends a hand.
Source: Automotive News – swapmeetclassified

1 total views, 1 today

A 1958 Fairlane With a Shot of Shelby Venom

Uncategorized October 18, 2017

Five miles north of the Canadian border, you’ll find one of the best-looking—and toughest—street cruisers around. Back in 2013, Mike Falconer of Langley, British Columbia, had been looking for a 1962 Thunderbird Sports Roadster. “Everybody has 1955-1957 Chevys,” he told us, “but I wanted a Ford.” After a couple weeks of searching the Internet, he hadn’t found a T-bird, but he came across this 1958 Fairlane 500, located south of the border in Washington. The seller had owned the car for 25 years, and the peach tree growing through the middle of it was an indication of how often the car was driven.

The car had been through some transformations over the years, hot-rodded and then brought back to relatively stock condition. Mike, of course, had his own ideas of how the Fairlane should be built—just like you see it here.

The exterior shows off Ford’s original styling as well as Mike’s low-key custom modifications. Canadians will recognize the grille from a 1958 Ford Meteor, a Canadian marque. The side trim is not custom; Ford used that design on the Fairlane Club Sedan, Club Victoria, Town Sedan, and Town Victoria in 1958. The rear wheelwells were cut to allow clearance for the 20×10 Boss 338 aluminum five-spoke wheels and 275/40R20XL Toyo tires. The front 18×8 wheels roll on 235/45ZR18XL Toyos.

When repainting the car, Mike decided to stay close to the color it already was, adding a little more rose-colored pearl (about 4 ounces) to the silver metallic paint.
Kremyr Chassis Works in Surrey, British Columbia, put together the chassis. Suspension parts were chosen with performance in mind, and added to the stock frame, including Fatman Fabrications 3-inch dropped spindles, Wilwood 12-inch disc brakes, and Wurth-It Designs rack-and-pinion steering. The rear, lowered 5 inches, uses a Calvert Racing CalTracs suspension setup.

Shelby emblems are rarely seen on 1958 Fairlanes, and there’s a reason for the ones on Mike’s car. The Ford FE 427 aluminum block, stroked to 482 ci, was built at Richmond Engines to Shelby specs. Components include a Scat 4.250 stroker crank, Lunati roller cam, and Edelbrock heads. A Shelby air cleaner tops the Quick Fuel carb and Shelby sidewinder intake. A custom stainless steel exhaust system is corked by Borla mufflers. Mike sent us the dyno test results showing the engine making 600 hp at around 6,000 rpm. The C4 Super Comp transmission from Performance Automatic is shifted with a B&M Pro Rachet T-handle shifter with a line lock. At the rear, a Ford 9-inch is loaded with 3.73:1 gears. According to the previous owner, the rearend came out of one of NASCAR racer Greg Biffle’s Number 16 Fords.

The front and rear bucket seats were transplanted from a 2005 Pontiac GTO. Prime Time Auto modified them where needed and upholstered the interior and trunk in black leather. The 500 logo has been embroidered on the seats and the Shelby Cobra emblem is used on the custom console. Interior door handles and window cranks are from Billet Specialties. American Muscle gauges were custom fit into the shaved dash. The Shelby logo appears again on the horn button of the contemporary steering wheel, mounted on a Flaming River tilt column. Interior amenities include an Alpine multimedia system, Vintage Air AC, and USB ports.

Mike’s Shelby-infused 1958 Fairlane 500 wasn’t built to be a daily driver in British Columbia, but for pleasure trips and joy rides, it’s perfect.

Classic Instruments Tech Tip:

LED dash lights are a nice option for your gauge set. They can be installed in all Classic Instruments individual gauges and can be wired the same way as the original incandescent light bulbs. However, if you want to be able to dim the dash lights, an additional LED dimmer module is required. This is because the original incandescent dimmer switch is made to dim incandescent bulbs, which draw over 1 amp of current in most gauge sets. LED bulbs in the same gauge set will only draw about 0.1 amp. Since the amount of current the LED bulbs use is so much less than the incandescent bulbs, the original incandescent dimmer will not make a noticeable difference to the LED light output. An LED dimmer switch is needed to adjust the voltage to the LED bulbs in order to create better dimming.

The post A 1958 Fairlane With a Shot of Shelby Venom appeared first on Hot Rod Network.

Source: Hot Rod

2 total views, 2 today

This “Replacement Ride” Rocks!

Uncategorized October 18, 2017

Some folks adopt the old truck hobby late in life while others were born into it. Larry Stewart, from Panama City, Florida, smiles when he describes his early automotive experience that revolved around ingenuity rather than trips to the parts store. “Back then you made things work the best way you could. My brother, Warren, and I couldn’t afford proper clamps, so exhaust pipes and mufflers were always held in place with coat hangers!” Those early builds were challenging and fun but family and careers put their hobby on hold for many years. “Now that the family is grown,” Larry says, “it’s my time!” Once retirement finally arrived, both he and his brother got back to doing what they loved, teaming up to build individual cars for themselves and friends. Together, they’ve created more than a dozen in the last 15 years. Significantly, the first car on that list was a 1947 Ford, still owned and loved by Larry’s wife, Cam, an avid enthusiast just like her husband.

His current truck turns out to be a replacement for one of his favorite rides. He owned a 1956 Ford pickup for several years. It was a special truck and he did not want to let it go. “A guy bugged me continuously for a year, wanting me to sell the truck. I finally threw out a price that I thought was ridiculous and he bought it on the spot.” While the cash was nice, Larry’s first priority was to fill the void, and after a concerted search, he found this 1953 F-100 in 2015 at a swap meet in Moultrie, Georgia. The truck looked good but it was far from complete, making it the perfect candidate for what Larry had in mind. Upgrades became a process of working with the existing mods and adding enough personalization so that Larry could call it his own.
Assessing the Ford’s strong points, the boxed frame had a 1988 Crown Victoria front end in place with disc brakes and power steering. Larry refreshed everything with new components, adding lowering springs for a subtle change in ride height. Out back, a 1999 Ford 8.8 limited-slip SUV rear gets the power to the ground.

Larry is quick to admit he’s not an engine mechanic but the still strong, late-model 302 V-8 was crying out for some modern aftermarket upgrades. He began with a new Edelbrock aluminum intake, 600-cfm four-barrel carb, and ceramic-coated, block hugger headers. Flowmaster added the appropriate performance rumble while the chrome valve covers and air cleaner provided a little sparkle to the engine room. A C-6 automatic seamlessly transmits the power.

Exterior changes followed the same pattern, blending existing mods with personal touches that reflected the new owner’s tastes. The clean front end benefits from a custom pan, a tilt forward hood, and deleted bumper. The traditional Ford grille was painted body color. In the rear, the bed uses all new sheetmetal with a Line of Fire light strip accenting the stamped Ford logo on the tailgate. Oak planks, separated by stainless steel strips, follow a traditional format and a billet gas cap provides access to the relocated tank. Since stance is everything in a custom truck, 2-inch wider fenders were added for a touch of style and to accommodate the aggressive American Racing 20-inch wheels and BFGoodrich rubber. New running boards connect the front and rear fenders. The paint on Larry’s F-100 is a combination of deep red and bright silver, separated with a yellow pinstripe and a carbon-fiber shadow line.
Happy that all the external upgrades had been addressed, Larry moved inside, beginning with a Dakota Digital instrument package that uses a combination of analog and digital, whiteface gauges. A chrome, CCP adjustable steering column and wheel keep the driver in close touch. Custom-upholstered Mustang buckets are separated by a new center console, with burgundy and gray vinyl added to the seats, console, door panels, and headliner. The Alpine stereo powers speakers in the kick panels and behind the seats while the Southern Air A/C keeps the cabin cool during warm Panama City nights.

The completed 1953 is a joy to drive and fills the void created by the lost 1956. Larry and Cam, along with their friends from the Crazy Cruisers Car Club, enjoy driving and showing their rides throughout the year. Interestingly, it just takes one look at this beautiful F-100 to see how things changed for this long-term enthusiast. The pristine truck doesn’t have a single coat hanger anywhere!

Facts & Figures
Larry Stewart
1953 Ford F-100 Pickup

Frame: Boxed framerails
Rearend / Ratio: 1999 Ford 8.8-inch rear
Rear Suspension: Leaf springs/shocks
Rear Brakes: Ford drums
Front Suspension: Ford Crown Victoria front clip, 3-inch lowering springs
Front Brakes: Ford Discs
Steering Box: Ford Crown Victoria power steering
Front Wheels: 20-inch American Racing Classic five-spoke polished aluminum
Rear Wheels: 20-inch American Racing Classic five-spoke polished aluminum
Front Tires: BFGoodrich 245-45-ZR20
Rear Tires: BFGoodrich 245-45-ZR20
Gas Tank: Steel, 15-gallon, relocated under the bed

Engine: Late-model Ford 302
Heads: Factory Ford
Valve Covers: Ford Racing, chrome
Manifold / Induction: Edelbrock intake and 600-cfm carb, chrome air cleaner
Ignition: HEI
Headers: Ceramic-coated block hugger
Exhaust / Mufflers: Dual Flowmasters
Transmission: Ford C6 automatic
Shifter: Column

Style: Pickup
Modifications: Dropped 3 inches
Fenders Front / Rear: Stock front, 2-inch wider rear, new running boards
Hood: Tilt forward hood
Grille: Painted to match, custom roll pan
Bed: Oak slats with stainless steel strips, gas filler in the bed
Bodywork and Paint by: Previous owner
Paint Type / Color: Red with silver, separated with a yellow pinstripe and carbon-fiber shadow line
Headlights / Taillights: Factory original
Outside Mirrors: Aftermarket Peep
Bumpers: No front bumper, polished chrome rear

Dashboard: Painted to match the exterior
Gauges: Dakota Digital analog gauges, illuminated red at night
Air Conditioning: Southern Air
Stereo: Alpine AM/FM/CD with four Alpine 4×6 speakers
Steering Wheel: CPP chrome
Steering Column: CPP chrome tilt column
Seats: Mustang buckets with individual armrests
Material / Color: Burgundy and gray vinyl on the seats, console, door panels, and headliner
Carpet: Gray

The post This “Replacement Ride” Rocks! appeared first on Hot Rod Network.

Source: Hot Rod

2 total views, 2 today

Ford says recall of F-150, Super Duty pickups to cost $267 million in Q4

Uncategorized October 18, 2017

Ford recalled 1.3 million 2015-17 F-150 pickups and 2017 Super Duty pickups to fix faulty side door latches. The action will cost the automaker $267 million in the fourth quarter.
Source: Automotive News – swapmeetclassified

1 total views, 1 today

QA1 Expands Hot Rod Series Shock Line

Uncategorized October 17, 2017

What it is: Hot Rod Series Shocks from QA1.




Why you care: QA1 introduces its newest series of Hot Rod shocks that provide a traditional, show-quality look matched with modern performance. Car builders will appreciate the availability of variable lengths and custom mounts, optional bell-shaped dust cover, and three-step sealing system that prevents leaks and eliminates dirt build-up. Manufactured in the U.S., the polyurethane bushings deliver a smooth ride, and the low-profile, slot-style adjuster provides 36 different options of rebound adjustment to tailor the shocks for a custom ride feel. Each shock is dyno-tested in-house before leaving the factory.

How much: $249.95 to $269.95 per shock from QA1

Learn more: QA1; (952) 985-5675; QA1.net

The post QA1 Expands Hot Rod Series Shock Line appeared first on Hot Rod Network.

Source: Hot Rod

3 total views, 1 today

Land Rover design chief dangles more clues on next Defender

Uncategorized October 17, 2017

The next Defender is the most important vehicle in Land Rover’s 70-year history.
Source: Automotive News – swapmeetclassified

3 total views, 1 today

Page 1 of 1851 2 3 185
  • Road Tour Chevy Gets its Seats Covered

    by on July 27, 2017 - 0 Comments

    Pity the trimmer. It’s only after all the fabrication is done, the budget is spent, and time consumed before they get the chance to ply their craft. It’s enough to take the fun right out of the thing you do. But trimmers persist. More than that, they flat knock things out of the park. Take […]

  • HOT ROD Drag Week 2017 Official Results and Winners

    by on September 16, 2017 - 0 Comments

    POWERED BY DODGE AND BROUGHT TO YOU  BY GEAR VENDORS After 1,000-plus miles of driving and racing over the last five days, HOT ROD Drag Week 2017 has finished at Cordova International Raceway. Those who have made it to the end of the week proved that they know what it takes to make sure their cars […]

  • Freak Show Friday: Skittles Engine

    by on July 28, 2017 - 0 Comments

    Not all freaks are freaks from the outside. Behold this Skittles engine compartment with all of the colors of the rainbow. You could say this is detailed, and you could also say it looks like someone dumped a box of Legos onto the engine. We were somewhat disappointed that the radiator hose remains black, when […]

  • Private-equity firm GPB Capital thrives under the radar

    by on July 23, 2017 - 0 Comments

    GPB Capital, a private-equity group, has quietly grown to 66 dealerships. Now they’re ready to start talking about who they are and how they operate. Source: Automotive News – swapmeetclassified

  • Hot Rod Chassis’ 1967 Chevelle

    by on July 23, 2017 - 0 Comments

    Chad Hill and the crew from Hot Rod Chassis & Cycle brought their recently completed 1967 Chevelle they call Rush. Built in a road racing style, it has the right look with a front splitter, a rear wing, a Ridetech Tiger Cage, and plenty of LS horsepower and a RideTech suspension to back it up. […]