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Hyundai ad firm buys Kia's longtime U.S. agency

Uncategorized December 14, 2017

Seoul-based advertising agency group Innocean has bought independent U.S. creative agency David and Goliath, a deal that unites two companies known for their work with South Korean automakers.
Source: Automotive News – swapmeetclassified

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Hot New Parts from the 2017 PRI Show: New LS and LT Engine Accessory Drive

Uncategorized December 14, 2017

Holley’s engineers have designed what’s probably the most compact accessory drive system for GM’s LS and LT engines on the market today. The heart of the system is a water pump they design and cast. All the engine accessories mount to the water pump, keeping the components close in to the engine. All the accessories are included in the kit: a Sanden A/C compressor, Type II power steering pump, LT1-style alternator, tensioner, and an SFI-approved balancer and crank pulley. Two different heater hose locations are possible, and the kit comes with a new serpentine belt and fasteners. Retail pricing starts at about $1,900, but it’s currently on sale for a limited time.

The post Hot New Parts from the 2017 PRI Show: New LS and LT Engine Accessory Drive appeared first on Hot Rod Network.

Source: Hot Rod

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Hyundai returns to roster of Super Bowl advertisers

Uncategorized December 14, 2017

Hyundai, which ran a post-game Super Bowl ad last season, has secured ad time during the 2018 game.
Source: Automotive News – swapmeetclassified

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Choosing the Perfect Crankshaft Stroke for Your LS Engine Build

Uncategorized December 14, 2017

The increasing number of stroker crankshafts available is giving builders more options when planning a street-performance or race engine combination. The benefits of a stroker crankshaft, however, must be balanced with addressing critical issues of clearance, piston speed, rod-length ratio, compression ratio, and balance.

Another often overlooked, if not ignored, scenario of a stroker assembly is the long crank throw pulling part of the piston skirt out of the cylinder sleeve at BDC (bottom dead center). This action could damage the skirts and induce ring flutter.

“The main issue when the piston pulls out of the bottom of the sleeve is the fact that the piston loses its support,” says JE Pistons product manager Nick DiBlasi. “The piston now can rock side-to-side further than when it’s completely enclosed in the cylinder.”

Just as the correct piston will help resolve issues of compression and rod-length ratio, a properly designed stroker piston will also remain secure inside a production cylinder block.

“JE offers piston solutions for 3.622, 3.900, 4.000, and 4.100 stroke cranks as off-the-shelf catalog options with 6.125-inch rods,” says DiBlasi. “Additionally, we can make a custom in any combination that our customers would like. We do make recommendations on what works best based on engine configurations, our dyno testing, and race winning solutions.” According to testing and calculations, the 3.900-inch stroker crank is the most practical when balancing power and durability.

“It gives you enough of a displacement increase to make most people happy, and is substantially more stable in the cylinder bores in comparison to 4.000-inch and larger strokes,” explains DiBlasi.

Before offering more details on piston design, let’s review the dynamics involved in installing a stroker crankshaft. The goal, of course, is to increase engine displacement—allowing more air and fuel to fill the cylinder on each firing cycle. It’s perhaps the first power trick discovered by designers and builders of the internal combustion engine. In the early days, crankshafts were stroked using a method called offset grinding, but the real visionary tricks came with rather creative mixing and matching of rods and pistons to complete the rotating assembly. Veteran hot rodders may remember stroking early small-block Fords with Pinto connecting rods and Chevy pistons, and there are dozens of other similar innovative combinations in the history books. Today, there rarely is a need for such hybrid formulas as the aftermarket offers complete stroker kits in a variety of sizes for all popular engines.

But making a change to improve one performance factor in any engine always affects some other operating characteristic. Most obvious in a stroker engine are clearance issues, such as the connecting rods or crank counterweights interfering with the bottom of the cylinder, pan rails, or even the camshaft. A grinder solves some of those problems, or the solution may be more complicated like custom ordering a small base-circle camshaft to attain the necessary clearance.

Increasing the stroke also affects the geometry inside the cylinder. Either the connecting rod length must be shortened or the pin height on the piston must be shortened to compensate for the added length of the crankshaft arm. Engine builders don’t like short rods because a higher rod angle is created with respect to the crankshaft journal location during rotation. This, in turn, increases pressure on the cylinder wall and wears out the piston, rings, and cylinder much quicker.

So, it’s up to the piston manufacturer to make up the difference by moving the location of the wristpin—which is called the pin or compression height—closer to the top of the piston. There are obvious limitations to how short the pin height can be engineered because of the ring locations.

“The pin height/compression distance is a factor based on the stroke, rod length, and deck height,” confirms DiBlasi. “The piston height is directly related to those items.” With a large increase in stroke length, the piston manufacturer also has options in skirt design to help minimize, if not avoid, exposing that skirt at BDC.

“The biggest issue is that the skirt sees excessive wear when pulling out of the bottom of the skirt. Since the piston is unsupported it is now able to rock side-to-side more,” explains DiBlasi. “That additional rocking puts wear on the exposed skirt that pulls out of the cylinder.”

Over the years, the aftermarket has developed stroker assemblies that offer engine builders aggressive options in either pursuing more horsepower or more conservative combinations targeting durability and engine life. The 6.0- and 6.2-liter LS V-8s are among the most popular production engines today that receive stroker kits. Both feature a 3.622-inch stroke crankshaft and connecting rods with a 6.098-inch center-to-center distance.

“While we see some people utilizing big strokes on the 4.8-liter, 5.3-liter, and LS1 engines, it is much less common. Most of those builds are to meet a specific budget. Sometimes adding a forged crank alone is more expensive than the entire build cost,” says DiBlasi.

Popular stroker cranks for the 6.0-liter (364.1 ci), which has a 4.000-inch bore, and the 6.2-liter (376.1 ci), which has a 4.065-inch bore, are 3.900-inch, 4.000-inch, 4.100-inch, and 4.125-inch. With a 4.065-inch bore, the respective displacements with stroker crankshafts are 404.92 ci, 415.3, 425.68, and 428.8. With a 4.000-inch bore, the respective displacements are 392.07 ci, 402.1, 412.18, and 414.7.

“The most common of the very large strokes are the 4.100- and 4.125-inch. A 4.250-inch crankshaft might be able to be shoved in there, but it can’t look pretty,” says DiBlasi. Again, this discussion focuses on production LS blocks. There are aftermarket blocks and the popular GM LSX iron block that are designed to support longer strokes—some with a taller deck height and longer cylinder sleeves where exposed skirts at BDC are more easily resolved.

“With the larger stroke cranks, our pistons have to have a skirt clearance that clears the counterweights of the cranks. All our pistons are designed specifically which each crankshaft stroke and rod combination in mind,” says DiBlasi. “The compression height, piston volume, skirt, and thickness below the pin on a 4.100-inch stroke piston versus a 3.622-inch OEM stroke piston will be different to accommodate this.”

Piston solutions for LS stroker builds are usually designed around the popular 6.125-inch connecting rod. With a 4.000-inch stroke crankshaft, the rod ratio is 1.531:1. Most engine builders shy away from rod ratios below 1.5:1, as the angularity gets rather intense beyond that point. But the decision to go with a 4.000-inch crank or longer depends on the engine builder’s goals.

“Since customers are racing for the biggest horsepower numbers and cubic inches, most people push long-term reliability and piston skirt wear as a lower priority,” adds DiBlasi. “One thing to note is that the 4.000-inch stroke is the most popular out of all stroker LS combinations. So even with the added wear, most builders and racers are willing to accept this.”

What other downsides come with stroker kits? While a longer stroke certainly improves low-end and mid-range torque, it can also bring the rev limit down—depending on the cylinder head and camshaft choices. That’s why you rarely see stroker kits in small import engines with turbochargers—those engine builders need high rpm to spin the turbos faster and build boost.

Stroker kits also affect bearing life and piston speed, but these are factors that engine builders will accept. Maximum piston speed is the highest speed the piston will see as it moves from TDC to BDC and back to TDC, and that number is important to help engineers determine piston construction and ring package. Piston speed is a direct relation between stroke and rpm. For example, a stock LS 3.622-inch crankshaft running at 6,500 rpm has a maximum piston speed is 65.4 feet per second (fps). Go to a 4.000-inch stroke crank at the same rpm and the piston speed is 72.2 fps. With a 4.250-inch stroke the piston speed picks up to 76.7 fps. Conventional wisdom says piston speed should not exceed 140 fps, so there’s plenty of breathing room for stroker LS cranks. In fact, a 4.000-inch stroke crank would have to spin over 12,500 rpm before coming close to 140 fps.

“The weight is also a big factor with piston speeds. It’s not just about the speed, it’s about how much mass and at what speeds,” adds DiBlasi. “For instance, a 1,500-gram piston and rod assembly would be extremely abusive on the bearings and rods bolts compared to a 1,000-gram piston and rod assembly. The load that a 1,500-gram assembly would exert at 80 fps would be vastly more than a 1,000-gram assembly at the same speed. So the piston speeds are not the only factor to consider.”

One final consideration when stroking a LS engine is pushing the piston out of the top end of the cylinder. Although not an ideal scenario, it’s not uncommon.

“Many OEM LS engines from the factory come out of the top of the block. The OEM engines utilize a 0.051-inch thick head gasket to compensate for this,” explains DiBlasi. “Aftermarket piston companies have made both pistons that are out of the deck, below deck, and even with the deck. Customer requirements and application typically dictate which route we will choose. The danger comes in when you are below 0.040 from the piston to cylinder head. Aluminum rod motors will require more as the rod stretches at max rpm.”

Late-model production engine aren’t always stroker friendly. Fifty years ago the common measuring stick was horsepower per cubic inch. At the turn of the century, “power density” became the motivating buzzword for powertrain engineers. They were charged with getting the most horsepower out of the lightest and smallest package. Accommodating stroker kits was not a priority. However, the aftermarket has adapted rather cleverly. As noted earlier, however, pushing the limits of displacement is not always the best approach because so many other performance factors and engine dynamics are affected and possibly compromised.

“In the end, it all depends on the end user’s application and duty cycle. If they are building a street car with the intent of long life, then a 3.900-inch crankshaft is probably going to suit them better and provide them with the durability they are looking for,” sums up DiBlasi. “For all-out drag racers who refresh their engines often, they are looking for max power and a longer stroke will be the obvious choice.”

When moving between a 3.900-inch and 4.000-inch stroker crank, the pin must be moved up on the piston. On the 4.000-stroke piston (left) the pin will intersect the oil ring, requiring a support rail. On the 3.900-stroke piston there is enough meat left to use a conventional ring pack without a support rail.
Note how the wristpin intersects the oil ring. This requires an oil support rail, a thin ring of steel, to bridge the gap and keep the oil ring from fluttering and causing excessive oil consumption.
This 3.900-stroke piston has enough meat above the pin to use a conventional piston ring.
This view, from the underside of the pistons, shows the difference in wristpin position and the effect on the ring pack. The pin intersects the oil groove (as shown on the right).
As the engine stroke increases, either the compression height or connecting rod length will need to decease to keep the piston from coming out of the cylinder at TDC.
Changing an engine’s stroke affects a multitude of design factors on a piston. Compression height, skirt design, and crown volume are just a few of the variables that need to be adjusted.
This crankshaft has a 4.000-inch stroke. While the 4.000-inch stroke is one of the most popular stroker cranks for the LS engine series, it often causes the piston skirt to pull out of the bottom of the bore at BDC, promoting accelerated wear. A 3.900-stroke provides a similar displacement increase with better wear life for a street car.

The post Choosing the Perfect Crankshaft Stroke for Your LS Engine Build appeared first on Hot Rod Network.

Source: Hot Rod

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Hyundai bolsters electric car lineup to narrow gap with rivals

Uncategorized December 13, 2017

Hyundai Motor Group, lagging behind rivals in the introduction of electric vehicles, is stepping up plans for battery-powered cars as world governments crack down on polluting fossil fuels.
Source: Automotive News – swapmeetclassified

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Jeep reshapes iconic Wrangler with slippery brick styling

Uncategorized December 13, 2017

At first glance, the styling of the next-generation Wrangler doesn’t appear to have changed much. But a bend here and a curve there improved aerodynamics by 9 percent, a top FCA executive says.
Source: Automotive News – swapmeetclassified

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2017 PRI Show Time Lapse Video: Walk (most of) PRI in Six Minutes

Uncategorized December 13, 2017

Though it doesn’t cover nearly the same square-footage at the SEMA show, there is still plenty to see at the Performance Racing Industry trade show, held for the last several years at the Indiana Convention Center in Indianapolis, Indiana. This was the 30th Annual PRI show, and more than 1,100 exhibitors were present and displaying their latest and best selling products. It’s all hard-core performance parts, too. You won’t find underglow lug nuts or snake-oil blinker fluid anywhere in Indy. We will be showcasing some of our favorite products throughout the week, but first, check out our time-lapse video where we walk nearly the whole show in about six minutes.

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The post 2017 PRI Show Time Lapse Video: Walk (most of) PRI in Six Minutes appeared first on Hot Rod Network.

Source: Hot Rod

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How to install 21st century handling and ride quality in your classic Chevelle

Uncategorized December 13, 2017

Suspension technology has come a long way since the 1960s. The 1964-’72 Chevelle delivered exceptional ride quality and handling for its time because it was a body-on-frame vehicle in a field of unit body competitors from Ford, Chrysler, and AMC. The Chevelle delivered on every level because it was clearly the best intermediate car of its time. Of course, times have changed and what was once great now feels outdated.

If you’re on a tight budget, you can upgrade your Chevelle’s suspension with polyurethane bushings, adjustable shocks, lowering springs, and thicker sway bars fore and aft. However, if you’re seeking a quantum leap in ride quality and handling, QA1 offers solutions that will bring your classic car into the 21st century.

We’re working with a big-block 1967 Chevelle hardtop that suffers from clunky handling and a noisy ride. Having a big-block in front creates its share of handling issues and the suspension is shot from a half century of use. Oh sure, we could just replace the bushings, springs, shocks, and sway bars and call it a day. However, Joel Rode of Hot Rod Specialties wouldn’t be a happy man and his classic Chevelle experience would be a whole lot less than it could be.

A big-block Chevelle needs all the help it can get in terms of handling and ride, so we turned to QA1 for a solution. Chevelles are heavy in the nose and they tend to plow, but they don’t have to. Adjustable coilover shocks; beefy sway bars fore and aft; thick, tubular upper and lower control arms with super-tough polyurethane bushings; and extra-added structural integrity make a night and day difference in handling.

1. This is our big-block 1967 Chevelle as it stands with a worn-out factory suspension and stock ride height. We’re going to fit it with a complete QA1 suspension system to lower the ride height, improve the handling, and get better a ride quality.
2. Although the Chevelle’s suspension has been refurbished over the years with ball joints, shocks, and stabilizer links to keep it going, it has never had a real upgrade in a half century of operation. Those stamped steel factory control arms need to go.
3. Joel Rode, of Hot Rod Specialties, gets right down to business busting ball joints and tie-rod ends loose and tossing the old parts into the refuse bin. A good, sharp blow to the steering spindle shocks the ball joints and tie-rod ends loose. Rarely will you have to use a pickle fork to bust them loose.
4. The old shocks are unbolted and removed from the hole in the bottom of the lower control arm.
5. Having access to a vehicle lift makes this process easier, but it can also be done in your home garage. With the vehicle properly secured, place a jack stand under the ball joint area of the lower control arm to keep it and the coil spring supported. Unbolt the spindle and gradually unload the jack stand by slowly raising the lift. Keep in mind that a coil spring under tension contains a tremendous amount of energy. They can maim and kill if you are not careful. Stand away from the coil as the tension is released from the coil spring.
6. Be prepared for moments like this. The lower control arm pivot bolts won’t come out in some cases due to header clearance issues. We’re cutting the pivot bolt to get it out because QA1 provides new Grade 8 hardware with their control arm kits.
7. The upper control arms are where camber and caster alignment adjustments are made, using shims, on these old Chevelles. Once locked into place, the shims hold the alignment quite well. Take note of where these shims are before disassembly. Reinstall them in the same locations when you install the new QA1 control arms, which will get the alignment close enough so that you can drive to an alignment shop for a check and adjustment.
8. We get a rush of excitement looking at these QA1 pieces for the Chevelle’s front end. These tubular control arms sport super-tough polyurethane bushings with zerk fittings for regular preventive maintenance. They will last the life of your Chevelle and deliver handling and ride quality like never before. QA1 coilover shocks are fully adjustable, enabling you to control stiffness and ride height.
9. The QA1 upper control arms are offset, meaning you can dial in more negative camber by simply rotating the upper control arm shaft 180 degrees if you’re going road racing or autocrossing.
10. The upper control arm bolts in place of the original, with shims used for alignment purposes. Although shims are a pain to use for camber and caster alignment, they hold alignment better than any other means. Unless you hit a curb, or nail a pothole with great violence, this approach to alignment does it best.
11. Joel methodically assembles the adjustable QA1 coilover shocks using molybdenum grease between the adjustment rings and the shock body for ease of ride height adjustment.
12. The QA1 coilover shocks attach to these lower shock mounts, which bolt to the lower control arm with four Allen screws. These lower mounts provide excellent support.
13. The adjustable QA1 shocks are bolted on up top and are prepared for attachment to the lower control arms. Installation works just like removal did. Support the vehicle at the framerails with a floor jack and place a jack stand beneath the lower control arm. We’re using vehicle weight to compress the spring and secure the lower control arm.
14. Here’s the shock’s top attachment point, as original with a stud and urethane grommet.
15. These billet aluminum tie-rod adjusters have to be one of the best innovations we’ve seen for classic Chevys. Late-model vehicles have employed these adjusters for years. QA1 makes it easier than ever to set toe, and these can’t deform under load like the stamped steel stockers. Take the new tie-rod ends and adjuster and set them up to the same exact length as the original tie rods.
16. Here’s the driver-side QA1 tie-rod assembly installed and ready for alignment.
17. The QA1 stabilizer links have polyurethane bushings for greater stability. Joel applies polyurethane lubricant to eliminate noises.
18. It is a matter of opinion which way to install stabilizer link bolts: head up or head down. Joel prefers head down.
19. We’re working with a typical Chevelle rear suspension with coil springs, trailing arms, and a 12-bolt GM rear axle. This one is filled with 2.73:1 cruising gears. We won’t be going drag racing any time soon.
20. Joel begins his regiment by supporting the axle with screw jack stands. This support is important to axle stability while we’re changing out the control arms, springs, and shocks.
21. QA1 has provided us with a complete rear suspension system for our Chevelle. Joel can tell you firsthand what a difference the QA1 kit has made to his Chevelle’s handling and ride quality. That difference comes from adjustable coilover shocks, bulletproof trailing arms, and a sway bar the Chevelle never had in the first place. It means stability like never before.
22. With the rear axle carefully supported, Joel begins pulling the rear suspension apart. He begins with the upper trailing arms.
23. When you examine the QA1 and the factory upper trailing arms side-by-side the difference in integrity is clear. Brute tubular stock is unyielding in its strength, which keeps the axle centered and stable.
24. Polyurethane bushings have been hammered into the 12-bolt axlehousing. The old rubber bushings were shot and way overdue for replacement.
25. The lower trailing arms (also known as control arms) are removed next at the chassis and the axle.
26. The new QA1 lower trailing arms are installed with the zerk fittings pointed down for easy access. The bushings have been lubed for quiet and reliable operation.
27. The QA1 coilover shocks and springs are assembled as shown and set up uniformly for installation. Once you have your Chevelle on the ground, you can adjust the ride height, take it out for a little road work, and then recheck the ride height.
28. Our QA1 coilovers are installed and ready for a ride height adjustment. You’re going to want a solid, level surface on which to adjust the ride height.
29. The QA1 rear sway bar is a terrific addition for this big-block Chevelle. Joel tells us it’s a night and day difference from what he had underneath before. The ride height is lower and the handling and ride quality are incredible.
30. The rear sway bar connects to the lower trailing arms as shown via a billet-aluminum block and Grade 8 hardware from QA1. This is, without a doubt, a nice piece.
31. The ride height has been lowered about 1 inch front and rear. Additional coilover adjustment can bring it down even further, or raise it up if needed. The QA1 suspension package gives us complete adjustability coupled with exceptional handling.

Sources

Hot Rod Specialties

909.215.5516

QA1 Precision Products

800.721.7721

qa1.net

The post How to install 21st century handling and ride quality in your classic Chevelle appeared first on Hot Rod Network.

Source: Hot Rod

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Penske buys more U.K. used-only stores

Uncategorized December 12, 2017

Penske Automotive Group will buy The Car People, a used-only retailer in the UK, nearly doubling its used-only operations in that market.
Source: Automotive News – swapmeetclassified

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2018 Ford Expedition: A beast gets tamed

Uncategorized December 12, 2017

Ford’s Expedition, an SUV family hauler, has undergone a long overdue redesign for the 2018 model year. The latest Expedition features a new aluminum body, a 10-speed transmission and a host of technology features. It’s powered by the same 3.
Source: Automotive News – swapmeetclassified

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  • Jesse James to Unveil His Twin-Turbo 1964 Dodge Polara at SEMA 2017

    by on October 12, 2017 - 0 Comments

    With the start of the annual SEMA show less than a month away, we’re starting to see some of the anticipated builds coming together, and this 1964 Dodge Polara owned by the famous car and motorcycle builder, Jesse James, will definitely be one to keep your eye on. In order to bring this project to […]

  • Muscle Cars From the 1970s: This Street Freak 1968 Chevrolet Camaro Is the Family’s Grocery Getter

    by on September 26, 2017 - 0 Comments

    “Day two” is the 21st century term that today’s car hobby has hung on muscle cars modified with period-correct speed equipment. They weren’t called that back then, just like World War I wasn’t referred to that way until World War II happened. They were just cars, and modifying them was just what you did back […]

  • Midway Mustang & Midwest Fox Rods teaming up on next level Fox build

    by on September 30, 2017 - 0 Comments

    It is said “Competition Breeds Excellence.” These days, in the Fox Mustang game, next-level builds are becoming commonplace. With every build, the elevator keeps going up. Coyote swaps, wheelwell stretching rolling stock, the in-the-weeds stance, and custom paint have become increasingly popular with these builds. These builds fuel the fire for more killer builds, and […]

  • Wheels Aplenty: A Buyers’ Guide to Aftermarket Mustang Wheels

    by on October 1, 2017 - 0 Comments

    When it comes to modifying our Mustangs, there is a phenomenon known as “Day One” and “Day Two” builds. The first day or two when you get a car, there are several things most people do first to personalize it. Almost always, a Day One or Day Two build includes wheels and tires as the […]

  • Turn One’s Versatile Performance Plus Steering Box

    by on October 16, 2017 - 0 Comments

    What it is: Turn One’s Performance Plus steering box. Why you care: Turn One’s new Performance Plus steering box is ideally suited for track cars that occasionally see some street use. Each gearbox weighs about 5 pounds lighter than traditional boxes and delivers authentic fitment with a wide range of custom ratios available: 6, 7, […]