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How China plans to create giant state-owned carmaker

Uncategorized 14 hours ago

In recent years, Beijing has forced the consolidation of state-owned industries such as steelmaking, railway equipment and coal mining. Now it’s the auto industry’s turn.
Source: Automotive News – swapmeetclassified

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Honda will have partners, not tie-ups

Uncategorized 14 hours ago

Honda CEO Takahiro Hachigo says partnerships — not capital tie-ups — are the way to confront the new era of technology.
Source: Automotive News – swapmeetclassified

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Quick Tech: Driveline Diagnostics

Uncategorized December 16, 2017

Driveline vibrations are easy to feel, but solving them can puzzle even the most methodical of knuckle-busters. Does your car have the highway vibes? Just sending your driveshaft out for a balance job may not work…or make things even worse. To minimize frustration, here are some tips.

Check your driveline angles: because of geometric hocus-pocus, the input and output velocity of universal joints (U-joints) varies with operating angle. If the input velocity of a U-joint is constant, the output will speed up and slow down twice per revolution. But, a universal joint angled in the exact opposite direction will cancel out this phenomenon, and the output velocity will match the input.

So just make sure the tail shaft of the trans is the same angle as the pinion, and we’re good, right? Well, not exactly. If your car has rubber bushings, leaf springs, or any type of non-parallel rear control arms, the pinion angle will change under load. So, you need to compensate for this by having the pinion angle nose down a couple degrees, depending upon your rear suspension setup, and on much the pinion climbs under load. The goal is to have the pinion end of the driveshaft at the same angle as the transmission end when driving.

But, there’s also another catch (we told you this was complex). The universal joint operating angles (the angle between, say, the transmission and the drive shaft or the pinion and the drive shaft) need to be kept at a minimum, usually 3-degrees or less. This minimizes vibrations of the drive shaft between the U-joints.

Summary: Keep operating angles less than 3 degrees, and get the input and output angles equal under load.

Check run-out: Have you ever picked up a vibration after changing rearend gears? Not only is the drive shaft spinning at a different speed, but also the pinion flange may be causing the vibration. On most cars, there’s wobble that stems from the transmission output shaft and pinion flange, and after changing rear gears, the pinion has a different wobble than before. This is called run-out. Ever notice the dots that are painted on pinion flanges and driveshafts from the factory? A drive shaft with perfect balance will vibrate when connected to a transmission or pinion with excessive run-out, so manufacturers make drive shafts that are imbalanced on purpose! When a slightly imbalanced driveshaft is oriented correctly on a pinion flange or transmission output shaft correctly, the drive shaft imbalance cancels out the run-out.

Check your transmission output shaft and pinion flange for run-out using a dial indicator. If you have more than a couple thousandths of run-out on either part, try indexing the driveshaft at different positions on the flange and transmission output shaft until the vibration is reduced. You can further compensate for run-out by placing weights (washers) under one of the driveshaft bolts, or have weight added to your driveshaft.

Balance the driveshaft: Notice this the last thing to do. If your driveline angles are within spec, your transmission output shaft and pinion flange run-out measurements are only a couple thousandths, the last thing to do is have the driveshaft checked and balanced.

Thinking outside the box: Today’s popular overdrive transmission swaps don’t fit really well in the narrow tunnels of classic cars, so often the only solution is to lower the tail shaft of the transmission for clearance. This may make it difficult to keep the driveshaft operating angles under 3-degrees. To tackle this problem, some creative driveshaft builders use a constant velocity (CV) joint in the shaft, which can operate at higher angles while the input and output velocities are equal (hence the name). These shafts allow the transmission end of the shaft to operate at a greater angle, while pinion angle can be set close to zero at the differential end without regard to the transmission output shaft angle.

To avoid drive shaft torsional vibration, this is what we’re after: during normal driving, the tail shaft and pinion shaft should be parallel (the same angle relative to each other).
To check the front driveshaft yoke angle, we used a digital level against the machined surface on the transmission tail shaft.
To check the rear pinion angle, we put our digital level on the differential pinion flange.
Even a perfectly balanced drive shaft will vibrate if it’s attached to something that wobbles. We used a dial indicator against the transmission yoke to measure the run-out of the transmission output shaft.
To measure rear pinion shaft run-out, we used a dial indicator on the piloting surface on the pinion flange.
To counterbalance run-out at the pinion flange, we used washers on the drive shaft bolt opposite the point of maximum run-out.
Even if the front and rear angles are set correctly, neither of the angles between the drive shaft and either the transmission yoke or pinion shaft (U-joint angles) should be greater than 3-degrees.

The post Quick Tech: Driveline Diagnostics appeared first on Hot Rod Network.

Source: Hot Rod

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Nissan applies EV learning in new Leaf

Uncategorized December 16, 2017

Nissan’s second-generation electric Leaf launches in January with a big advantage for the automaker. It’s done this before.
Source: Automotive News – swapmeetclassified

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Aptiv, Valens working to slash car wiring

Uncategorized December 16, 2017

Aptiv has partnered with Israeli tech firm Valens Automotive to rewire future vehicles with fewer wires.
Source: Automotive News – swapmeetclassified

1 total views, 1 today

Proper Installation of Front and Rear 1968 Camaro Bumpers

Uncategorized December 16, 2017

We’ve all seen this. A full-scale restoration meticulously performed, yet something just isn’t right. Bumper installation and alignment can make or break a restoration. No one wants to see a Camaro with a frown or its keister drooping at an angle. Bumpers are among the first things people see when they look at your classic Chevy. If they are crooked … game over. People move on and they don’t even know why.

We’re at Hot Rods by Dean in Phoenix for a lesson on how to install bumpers and a front chin spoiler to achieve that perfect look. Auto Metal Direct is where we decided to go for the bumpers and chin spoiler. These are nice pieces that look sharp and are easy to install, especially if you have a friend or two available to help. The main things to keep in mind during the install is to take your time and use a sharp eye to ensure your bumpers are centered correctly before cranking the fasteners down. CHP

1. Reproduction classic Camaro bumpers from Auto Metal Direct arrive at your doorstep carefully packaged and ready to go. These are nice pieces that defy detection from original.
2. The bumper brackets are installed first and set up for adjustment. Do not tighten the fasteners until the bumper is attached for reference.
3. Here’s a basic Chevrolet illustrated parts breakdown for the front bumper on the 1967-’69 Camaro, which gives you an idea of how it all goes together.
4. Use the front stone guard (fascia) as a bumper alignment reference. The front bumper should be positioned where it runs parallel to the stone guard. It’s good to have a helper at each end to provide support and a second opinion. Center the bumper on the stone guard.
5. This is the optimum situation, shown here at Hot Rods by Dean. They have one person at each end and someone in the middle to handle the fasteners. Get the bumper positioned, gently snug the fasteners, then do a fitment check before fully tightening the bolts.
6. Auto Metal Direct has provided us with nice cad-plated fasteners like Chevy used a half century ago. The main thing is to be gentle with these fasteners to where you don’t score the surfaces. This is the threaded insert for the front bumper bracket at the frame, just below the subframe mount.
7. Each side should run parallel with this front fender body line, as shown. And again, the bumper should run parallel with the front stone guard.
8. This front chin spoiler from Auto Metal Direct is a must for any first-gen Camaro. It adds that special “sportiness” to any Camaro restoration.
9. This illustration shows you the chin spoiler installation and all the mounting hardware that goes with it. This is an easy modification you can make to any first-gen Camaro.
10. Because the chin spoiler is a bolt-on factory item, Chevrolet has made all of the provisions available to you already. This thing looks sharp.
11. The rear bumper installation is similar to the front with the exception being bracketry and how it fastens to the tailpanel. And like the front bumper, the rear bumper is fully adjustable. Do a fitment check with the fasteners snug and with the aid of a helper. The bumper should run parallel with the tailpanel. Once you have properly adjusted the bumper and brackets, tighten the fasteners completely. In some instances, you may have to use shims to get the proper alignment.
12. This illustration demonstrates 1967-’69 Camaro rear bumper installation. The brackets are secured to the bumper first, then the rear bumper assembly is secured to the tailpanel. Bumper adjustment is performed primarily at the tailpanel. You are free to use shims as necessary to get the bumper adjustment parallel with the tailpanel and quarter-panels.


 Auto Metal Direct



Hot Rods by Dean



The post Proper Installation of Front and Rear 1968 Camaro Bumpers appeared first on Hot Rod Network.

Source: Hot Rod

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Tesla's push beyond cars now on display

Uncategorized December 15, 2017

If there’s any doubt Tesla isn’t just a car company anymore, its brand-new Manhattan showroom should put it to bed.
Source: Automotive News – swapmeetclassified

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Take Five With Aaron Kaufman, the Bearded Wonder!

Uncategorized December 14, 2017

Many of you know Aaron Kaufman only for his antics from the Fast & Loud TV show (and maybe for that glorious beard), but if you ask Aaron what he is, he will be quick to tell you he’s just a guy who likes cars. A largely self-taught mechanic and fabricator, Aaron has worked his way up to a prominent position as a custom car builder and has created some truly incredible hot rods over the years, and because he’s so passionate about vehicles, he has never really held a job outside of the automotive arena.

We got the chance to talk to Aaron for a Take 5 that turned into more of a Take 50; Aaron gets a little excited when you get him talking cars, but we didn’t mind one bit!

HRM] What was the thing that first got you hooked on cars?

AK] We didn’t have motorsports toys growing up, but we did go to races from time to time and always went down to the Sonic car show every month. Ever since I was a little kid, I was fascinated by everything mechanical—the sound and the smell of racetracks. I remember the first time at Ennis at the dragstrip with my eyes watering from the nitro. Do I remember the defining moment—the exact second? Not necessarily. It was something that was a culmination. I tried to work other jobs. I’ve tried to do other things, and I just couldn’t do it. It’s just in my blood, and I couldn’t say exactly where I picked it up.

HRM] What has surprised you most about the business of building hot rods?

AK] The argument over what labor is worth absolutely blows my mind. Because it’s not just the labor, it’s the experience that we have and the ability to execute a customer’s wild ideas. People will pay for labor for their daily drivers, but when it comes to one-off customs, they wanna argue over what that labor is worth. I will never understand that.

HRM] How do you like the limelight from the TV show?

AK] It’s a little strange…I have enjoyed it, it has been awkward, and it has been a massive benefit. Being on TV has forwarded my career by at least 20 years because of the networking. The people that I know and the notoriety gained has been such a benefit. I have had a wonderful time. People have been so nice to me, and there’s so many of these people that I would never have even talked to without the show. It’s been very cool, it’s been very fun, and it has its weird twists and turns and things you have to cope with emotionally, but ultimately, it’s been great because people can identify with how much I enjoy what I’m doing.

HRM] You’ve had the opportunity to be behind the wheel of a race car a few times. Which do you enjoy more, building or driving cars?

AK] It is a radically different drug. Driving has changed my building style to a great degree. Being a driver and a builder helps you see the vehicle in a holistic way. It has elevated my precision and the need to have everything be on the money. Most builders aren’t drivers, and most drivers aren’t builders, and I never expected to sit in the left side of a race car, but having the Falcon and being able to go race has impacted me greatly. Some of the people I have the most profound respect for, I have met within the racing community and I couldn’t imagine my life at this point without it.

HRM] What is your favorite build that you have been a part of?

AK] I have so many! In five years, we built something like 81 cars, but out of all the builds, if I could take one home and put it in my garage, it would be the black 3100. That little Chevy pickup—what a great truck!

HRM] What advice would you give young people who are starting their path toward an automotive career?

AK] It’s real simple, it’s called initiative. You have to be willing to do stuff for free for a long time to build your experience and expand your circle. Your time isn’t worth something until you’re capable of doing the work, and you have to be happy to go play cars for free. Paying your dues, earning your stripes—there’s no easy way to the top, and if there was, it wouldn’t be worth anything.

HRM] Would you consider yourself a Ford guy?

AK] My dad’s a Chevrolet guy, but one day I looked around my driveway and I realized all the vehicles I owned were Fords. I don’t know if you can really understand it without being a historian of some sort, but I’m enamored with the company and its history as a whole. I love the product and I love playing with them, so it turns out I’m a Ford guy.

HRM] Which do you like more, cars or trucks?

AK] I’m a pickup-truck guy. I love building race cars, I like building cars for customers, and I enjoy driving around in old cars, but really, I love old pickup trucks.

HRM] What is the fundamental purpose of your new company, Arclight Fabrication?

AK] Well, I’m a Ford guy and I love old pickup trucks and I realized there was a hole in the aftermarket for the F-100. I saw this huge hole, and I love making stuff, so our goal is to offer everything from the headlights to the taillights so that even if you’ve never built a truck before you can put together an Arclight F-100 in your driveway and hit an absolute home run. Our goal is to be a one-stop shop for every part you could possibly need to build a capable and well-built truck that is above reproach when it comes to quality and safety.

HRM] You are widely known as the “Master Mechanic,” how did that name come about?

AK] To be honest, it’s just because someone in an office in L.A. decided to call me that. I’ve been building cars a long time; to some degree, it’s the only job I’ve ever had. It’s hard to explain all the little details of building custom cars, so my parents always just told people that I was a mechanic. If you don’t think of it as a negative or a positive and just look at the ability to be mechanically minded—everything in that genre becomes easy. It’s just a machine. A man put it together and a man can take it apart.

HRM] What is your favorite tool in the shop?

AK] We had a plasma table that just sat there, so I decided to teach myself to use it even though it was difficult and took more time than the old-fashioned way at first. Once I knew how to use it, the ability to have the plasma table combined with the hydraulic press brake has been a tremendous step forward in saving time while building cars.

HRM] How do you like being your own boss?

AK] I hate it. It’s horrible. [Laughs] The crazy thing is that my brain and heart adores problem solving, but now I spend all this time on the phone, running to the bank, and managing all my employees. All these things have become so frequent, and while this sounds negative I am actually super excited for it. If you love building cars, being your own boss is a weird step away from the hands-on work, but if you never take this step you’ll always be building someone else’s cars. In my head, I know it’s the right decision, but in my heart it’s hard to take that step back.

HRM] We recently heard about your new show called Shifting Gears. What made you decide now is the time to return to television?

AK] I’m actually proud of this new show, and I couldn’t do it if I wasn’t. The producers wouldn’t stop calling, and we finally came up with a show that I agreed to that is unlike anything that’s been on TV before. We build based on my curiosity, and after building the cars, we beat them to within an inch of their life to see how they stack up against other similar cars and drivers. The goal is to play cars with our friends, and we’re just building cars from all across the spectrum to experience different car cultures and events.

The post Take Five With Aaron Kaufman, the Bearded Wonder! appeared first on Hot Rod Network.

Source: Hot Rod

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DIY Dent Removal: Save Big $$$ On Your Paintjob!

Uncategorized December 14, 2017

It’s a well-known fact that a high-quality paintjob is expensive. Bodyshops invest a lot in their facilities, their tools, and their staff, and we’re just talking about normal collision repair. Add the special needs for restoring vintage cars, and the cost of a paintjob multiplies. How expensive can it be? Getting out of paint jail for under five figures is a real accomplishment if you can pull it off.

What’s not well known is that most of the cost for a show-quality paintjob is not in the actual paint and materials, it’s in the prep labor—specifically stuff like rust repair and fixing old collision damage. It turns out that much of this requires more patience than skill or money, and with a few inexpensive tools can be done at home. We previously covered the basics of hammer and dolly work in a previous story, but that alone may leave you short in areas that are hard to reach, or that have tight compound curves.

You could bypass these repairs by using new sheetmetal if it’s available, but from a fit and authenticity standpoint, reusing the damaged original panels and repairing crunched corners and dents yourself with a stud welder and slide hammer makes more sense and saves dollars. Doing it the right way, however, is the key to actually saving money. For that, we turned to expert Geoff Gates, who operates one of the top muscle car restoration shops on the West Coast. His shop—Alloy Motors in Oakland, CA—specializes in Mopars, so we asked Geoff to show us the step-by-step procedure for removing dents with a stud welder and slide hammer using our 1968 Plymouth Valiant project as the subject.

Geoff explains: “Sometimes you can’t get to the back of a dent to hammer and dolly it out. Back in the day at my dad’s shop, they’d drill holes, screw a slide hammer in, and pull it out. They’d leave the holes to help the body filler grab.” Using this outdated technique on an important vintage restoration today though is the road to ruin. “I spend a ton of time fixing this type of work on my customers’ cars, welding holes shut, and working the metal,” says Gates. Thanks to modern technology, there is a better way.

A stud welder replaces the drilling of holes by welding a mild steel pin to the bodywork. The pin provides the slide hammer with a precise impact point for moving metal. A stud welder is a very inexpensive tool that you’ll want to have if you’re doing your own body work; you can get one from your local Harbor Freight dealer for as little as $99 (Chicago Electric model 61433). A good companion to that is Harbor Freight’s 14-piece slide-hammer set (model 62959) for about $25. Even if you load up with a hammer and dolly set and a few boxes of studs, you’re all in for under well $200.

Use these 11 tips to take nasty dents out of your Mopar and save big bucks on your paintjob bill. You’ll also have the satisfaction of doing it yourself!

Here are the tools we’ll be using: a pin welder (you can get a hobbyist one from Harbor freight and they work fine), slide hammer, 2-inch grinder, cut-off wheel, and for deeper pulls, you might use a MIG welder on the pins.
You need to get all the paint out of the dents so you can weld the pin to the bare metal. Use a 2-inch roll grinder with 80-grit abrasive.
You want to weld the pin where the most tension is: deep into the dent. With a fresh pin loaded in the stud welder, push the tool all the way to the metal.
When you pull the trigger, you’ll get some sparks. Hold the trigger for a few beats; most of these tools have timers built in so you can just hold the trigger until the tool cuts off.
See that glow! The controlled electrical arc just welds the pin to the metal.
Here’s a close-up of the pin welded in. A little bit of heat gets into the metal, which will shrink it a bit, but that’s better than drilling a hole.
Put the slide hammer on the pin and work the wheel on the end to lock it onto the pin.
A couple of pulls back on the slide hammer while keeping an eye on the metal movement is all you need. You don’t need to wail on it, just tap, tap, tap like you would with a hammer and dolly.
The metal moved out, much closer to where it should be. Now we have to get rid of this pin that’s welded to the fender.
Geoff just cuts them off close with a “cookie wheel” abrasive disc on a die grinder. Then he uses a 2-inch grinder to take off the rest.
Occasionally, the pins pull out and leave a hole in the metal. No big deal. Just MIG weld that little hole shut.
Sometimes if Geoff can’t pull any further on a heavy tension area like this he’ll MIG some tack welds to fill the low spot with metal.
Then just grind the tack welds smooth. The less body filler, the better. You can’t do this in the middle of a big panel, but on an edge like this it works really well.
If you have a bigger dent in a high-tension area and the stud welder just can’t stick the pins well, don’t be afraid to MIG weld the pin to the metal.
Two tack welds on opposite sides of the pin is all it takes to get it to stick really well.
Pay attention to the angle of your pull. Look at the way the dent was made and pull it in reverse.
This dent required an extreme angle to pull. It was likely done by the corner of the bumper pinging the fender in a little accident.

The post DIY Dent Removal: Save Big $$$ On Your Paintjob! appeared first on Hot Rod Network.

Source: Hot Rod

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TrueCar, California Dealers Association settle lawsuit

Uncategorized December 14, 2017

TrueCar agreed to change parts of its business model, including its billing, to settle litigation brought by the California New Car Dealers Association.
Source: Automotive News – swapmeetclassified

1 total views, 1 today

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  • Jesse James to Unveil His Twin-Turbo 1964 Dodge Polara at SEMA 2017

    by on October 12, 2017 - 0 Comments

    With the start of the annual SEMA show less than a month away, we’re starting to see some of the anticipated builds coming together, and this 1964 Dodge Polara owned by the famous car and motorcycle builder, Jesse James, will definitely be one to keep your eye on. In order to bring this project to […]

  • Muscle Cars From the 1970s: This Street Freak 1968 Chevrolet Camaro Is the Family’s Grocery Getter

    by on September 26, 2017 - 0 Comments

    “Day two” is the 21st century term that today’s car hobby has hung on muscle cars modified with period-correct speed equipment. They weren’t called that back then, just like World War I wasn’t referred to that way until World War II happened. They were just cars, and modifying them was just what you did back […]

  • Midway Mustang & Midwest Fox Rods teaming up on next level Fox build

    by on September 30, 2017 - 0 Comments

    It is said “Competition Breeds Excellence.” These days, in the Fox Mustang game, next-level builds are becoming commonplace. With every build, the elevator keeps going up. Coyote swaps, wheelwell stretching rolling stock, the in-the-weeds stance, and custom paint have become increasingly popular with these builds. These builds fuel the fire for more killer builds, and […]

  • Wheels Aplenty: A Buyers’ Guide to Aftermarket Mustang Wheels

    by on October 1, 2017 - 0 Comments

    When it comes to modifying our Mustangs, there is a phenomenon known as “Day One” and “Day Two” builds. The first day or two when you get a car, there are several things most people do first to personalize it. Almost always, a Day One or Day Two build includes wheels and tires as the […]

  • Turn One’s Versatile Performance Plus Steering Box

    by on October 16, 2017 - 0 Comments

    What it is: Turn One’s Performance Plus steering box. Why you care: Turn One’s new Performance Plus steering box is ideally suited for track cars that occasionally see some street use. Each gearbox weighs about 5 pounds lighter than traditional boxes and delivers authentic fitment with a wide range of custom ratios available: 6, 7, […]